Blog Archives

Nueces En Texas: How To Roast Pecans

This morning I roasted pecans.
Break them into pieces, add a little salt and into the oven they go.  The aroma fills the home with delicious recollections.Pecanpiecessml

Food is memory and the pecan is a good example of this.  Pecan is an iconic ingredient in many Texas Mexican dishes.

Near Del Río, Texas, archaeological evidence dates the pecan back 5,000 years.  (Dial & Black, 2006)  Native cooks, our ancestors, would grind them up, mix them with seeds and grains for a nutritous protein-rich meal.  Cabeza de Vaca attested to this in the 1500′s when he traveled along the San Antonio and Guadalupe rivers whose banks were loaded with pecan groves. Over the centuries our cuisine has incorporated pecans in creative and delicious ways.

My amá used roasted pecan pieces in her cornbread dressing, as I do now, and every time I do so, I sense her presence. A wonderful thing.

Dulce De Leche Quemada is a candy with pecans.  When I cooked the little candies and presented them as sculptures at an art show, “The Candy Shop,” one of my artist friends took a bite and recalled a flood of memories “I was a boy, and barefoot.”  He is from New Braunfels, TX, and pecans, abundant there, form part of his being.

Although raw pecans are tasty, I almost always roast them.  First I heat the oven to 350F.  I spread the pecan pieces onto a baking sheet and sprinkle them with salt. Place them in the oven and roast for 8 minutes.  It doesn’t take long.  The difference in flavor is dramatic.

Happy memories!

References:

Dial, S., & Black, S. (2006, September 18). Pecan . Retrieved from http://www.texasbeyondhistory.net/st-plains/nature/images/pecan.html

Posole, Pozole: White Corn Flowerettes In Aromatic Red Chile

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Large white corn kernels pop open to form small little flowers.
Brilliant the cook that invented this attractive dish.PozoleKernelssml

Cooked with special combinations of red chiles it is a traditional dish that is also cooked by native communities northwest of us, Pueblos in New Mexico and Navajos in Arizona (Keegan, 2010). It is traditional from our Texas Mexican region all the day down to Jalisco, Mexico. It is spelled with an S in Texas, Arizona and New Mexico and with a Z in Mexico.  Pork is used to make the broth.  In this version I omit the pork and it is a vegan feast recalling the pre-pork days of our cuisine.

The process is molecular. Boil white, dry corn with calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) a process called nixtamalization which was invented by indigenous cooks thousands of years ago. Nixtamalization is from the Nahuatl root words, “nextli,” ashes and “tamallii,” tamal. The process changes the chemical structure of the kernel, making niacin available in digestion and boosting the availability of protein.

Maiz3stages

Nixtamalization heightens the availability of protein and removes the hull. The pedicle is removed for visual effect.

 

It also removes the skin from the kernel and improves the taste.  This is natural molecular cooking and the result is wonderfully nutty hominy.

If you don’t have the time for nixtamalization, you can certainly use canned hominy, maiz pozolero.

Recipe:  (Serves 8-12)

Ingredients
For the corn
1 ½ lbs Cacahuazintle, dried white corn for pozole. In Houston I buy this large white dried corn from any of our corn mills that perform nixtamalization to make tortillas and masa for tamales.
1 Tbs Calcium Hydroxide (slaked lime)
5 Garlic cloves
1 Tbs Salt
1 White onion, peeled and  cut into quarters

For the chile paste:
3 Guajillo Chiles, deseeded and deveined
2 Chiles Ancho
3 Garlic cloves
1 Tbs dry Mexican Oregano
1 tsp Cumin seeds

Accompaniments:
½ Cabbage, sliced into thin strips (I sometimes use shredded Iceberg lettuce)
1 bunch Radishes, thinly sliced
1 cup White Onion, small dice
3 Mexican limes, cut into wedges
1 bunch fresh Cilantro, coarsely chopped

Method:
The corn:
1. The night before, place the dry corn in a large pot and fill with water 4 inches above the corn.  Soak overnight.

2.  The following day, discard the water, then add  clean water and the calcium hydroxide, “cal.” Bring the water to a boil and boil the corn for 15 minutes. Check doneness by taking out one kernel and rubbing between your thumb and forefinger. If the outer, slippery skin rubs off easily, the corn is done. Let the corn soak in the water for 10 minutes, then drain.MaizPozolerosml

3. Place the corn in a bowl or pot of clean water and vigorously rub the kernels together to scrape away the slippery skin from all the kernels. Change the water as needed until you get no debris and the corn is clean and white. This is labor intensive. Some of the little brown seed germs on the kernel tips will fall off. That’s very good, because they have to be removed.

4. Use your fingernails or a knife or scissors to take off the little brown seed germ, pedicel, at the tip of each kernel. Although it’s not traditional, you can leave the pedicel on if you like.  Set aside.

The Chile paste:

5. Remove the seeds from the chiles by cutting a slit lengthwise in each chile to open it and remove the stem with the attached seeds. Remove all the other seeds in the chile pod.

6. Place the chiles in a large pot and cover them with water. Bring to a boil, turn off the heat and let the chiles steep for 15 minutes so they will re-hydrate. Drain and allow to cool. Discard the water.

7. Place the chiles, garlic, oregano and cumin in a blender. Add one cup of clean water and blend on high until the paste is completely smooth, with no large particles. It is ok to add a little more water if needed. If there are large particles in the paste after you are done blending, strain the paste through a fine mesh sieve.

8. Add the chile paste to the cleaned corn, adding enough water to cover three inches above the corn, and boil it for one hour or longer until the kernels burst open like little flower buds.  If you have kids, they’ll love this transformation.

Serve the pozole in bowls accompanied by finely shredded cabbage, thinly sliced radishes, lime wedges, Cilantro and diced white onion. Of course, steaming corn tortillas.

PozoleWithCondiments

Posole: A vegan feast recalling our pre-pork cuisine.

REFERENCES:

Keegan, M. (2010). Southwest indian cookbook. Santa Fe: Clear Light Publishing.

 

 

Food of Indigenous Texas Peoples Who Became Today’s Mexican American Community.

AMapplause

March 28 we served a 9-course Texas Mexican dinner at the Aurora Picture Show,  Some of my family and friends came in from San Antonio and two chef friends, fellow CIA alumni, flew in to help staff the kitchen.  Many Houston friends and colleagues attended the dinner/films, but there were also  folk I’ve never met before.  Gracias, gracias, gracias. It was an amazing evening of culture and amistad.  Here is a FB picture set of the evening.

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“Yo Trabajo La Tierra” – “I Work The Land” A video meditation by Adán Medrano, 13 minutes

I expect one can look at this art event from the perspective of relational aesthetic theory if there still is one, or from strictly film or culinary art criticism perspectives.  But after all is said and done, we have eaten together the food we learned to cook from our Texas indigenous ancestors and we have seen projections of ourselves.  Below is an explanation of Texas Mexican food and the films that were be screened.  Thanks to all.

Texas Mexican Cuisine
(From the book, Authentic Texas Mexican Food by Adán Medrano,
to be published this year byTexas Tech University Press)

Texas Mexican cuisine is deeply rooted in the indigenous cultures of what are now US central and south Texas and northeastern Mexico.  The history of the cultures of this region begins in 900 AD, the period when anthropologists can identify distinct native communities and cultures.  Historians assert that over the next 3 centuries (between 900 and 1200 AD) the cultures and identities of nearly all the Texas Native American communities were clearly formed.

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Map of 1824 Texas Mexico. The triangle is the region of
Texas Mexican Cuisine.

This region was the state of “Coahuila y Texas” and actually part of the Mexican Republic which claimed Texas from 1821 to 1848.  It is therefore understandable that the indigenous Texas natives, along with their food, came to be known as “Mexican.” But it is erroneous to locate this food history as “south of the border,” for it existed also north of the Rio Grande River long before it was a border.

Between 1492 and 1900, 90% of the native peoples of Texas died.  European diseases such as cholera, smallpox, measles and influenza killed massive populations within weeks and even days.  Adding to this, Texan wars against native peoples and policies of ethnic cleansing would lead to massive deaths.

The indigenous peoples who remained in Texas married with other tribes, with European settlers and with Mexicans coming up from Southern Mexico. They sometimes lived in Catholic Church missions and eventually came to be known as the Mexican American people of Texas.

Chicano Films

Chicano is the name that is selected by Mexican Americans as a statement of self-identity.  Among its many connotations is one that affirms being culturally distinct while at the same time being at home in this land. It was used during the Chicano movement of the 1960′s and 1970′s and is associated with political action that improves the economic, social, educational and cultural lives of the Mexican American community and wider humane community.  The San Antonio CineFestival, founded by Medrano in 1976, was the first and now longest-running showcase of Chicano filmmaking.

Yo Trabajo La Tierra/I Work The Land (1990), 13 minutes, by Adán Medrano is a meditation on the religious and political dimensions of people who do farm work.  The no-dialog video is based on dreams and memories of the filmmaker, whose style is characterized by traditional, formal editing.  Raw natural sounds underscore daily routine, ending with a “corrido” about the farmworker God.

Willie Varela, Filmmaker

Willie Varela, Filmmaker

Detritus, The Remix (1989/2002), 12 minutes, by Willie Varela forces viewers to reckon with their intimate relationship to television. Using TV footage and his own images, Varela implicates both the consumer and the media industry in perpetuating a system of empty promises.  Texture, pacing, claustrophobia, Catholicism are foregrounded. A pioneer in the US avant-garde film movement, Varela defines the role of Chicano filmmaking in the development of US cinema.

Enlight-Tents (2010) by Laura Varela and Vaago Weiland, 4 minutes, transforms into a video format a live installation that used The Alamo as a giant screen.  Texas “Indians” are layered over the stone texture of the old mission walls and juxtaposed with illuminated Mexican American faces looking into the beyond as though there were no time.

 

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“Have You Seen Marie” video by Ray Santisteban, 7 minutes,
Winner, 2013 San Antonio CineFestival “Best Short Film”

Have You Seen Marie? (2012) by Ray Santisteban, 7 minutes, transforms a book by renowned Chicana author, Sandra Cisneros, into a personal video statement by pasting print and moving images inside the same frame.  The work merges documentary style camera work with digital image manipulation to retell the story of a lost cat – and who we really are.

The Chef’s Tasting Menu

La Bienvenida:    Trucha Ahumada Con Mayonesa de Chipotle-Yerbaníz

(Smoked Trout with Chipotle-Yerbaníz Mayonnaise)

Scene 1:

Gorditas de  Camarón y Nopalitos
(Texas Cactus and Gulf Coast Shrimp Canapé)

Gorditas de Frijoles Refritos y Queso
(Well-Fried Pinto Beans and Cheese Canapé)

FILM: “Yo Trabajo La Tierra” Adán Medrano 13 minutes

Scene 2:

Texas Mexican Crab Cocktail
Pecan-smoked Pork Loin with Chile Ancho Adobo

Albóndigas de Chile Chipotle
(Pickled Chile Chipotle Meatballs)

FILM: “Detritus” Willie Varela 12 minutes

 Scene 3:

Carne Guisada con Papas
(Green Chile  Beef with Potatoes)

Puerco en Chile Rojo
(Pork in Dried Red Chiles)

puerchilesml

Puerco En Chile Rojo

FILMS: “Enlight Tents” Laura Varela & Vaago Weiland 7 minutes
Have You Seen Marié?” Ray Santisteban 6 minutes

 La Despedida:

Turcos
(Aromatic Pork Empanadas)

Hojarascas
(Cinnamon Rounds)

Hojarascas

Hojarascas

Hasta luego!

Laura Varela, New-Style Filmmaker, Coming To Houston

Laura Varela  sees things that others do not see, and as a documentary filmmaker, she shares her vision by exploring new styles in storytelling.  She tells history with detail and force, and in her recent work, combines filmmaking with actual live art installations.LauraVarelasml

“My work is about those things that I know were not right, and now I can try to change them.” When she was 16 years old, growing up along the US-Mexico border in El Paso, Texas, she saw a man shot to death, just 10 feet in front of her.  She saw Mexican American Vietnam veterans dying from drug overdoses.  The violence that is reported in the press and media was the everyday social environment in which she grew up and which now inform her filmmaking: “I saw a lot of tragedy, things children should not see.”

Varela produced and directed “As Long As I Remember: American Veteranos” in 2009 and her masterful command of the stories of three artists, Vietnam war veterans, surely comes from seeing this human pain during her teen years, so close and personal.  The documentary aired on PBS nationally and is now on DVD.  It is hands down gripping in its exploration, in rare intimate fashion, of the agony soldiers live with after war.  Three Mexican American artists are the subjects, and if your view of war and pain has come only from the sensational news angles or facile depictions of sad moments, Varela’s movie will change you.   To get inside the ideas and emotions of these three men it takes a filmmaker who understands  Mexican American beliefs, how family relationships work, how gender roles are socially taught.  Varela receives letters from Veterans who found, in her film, the expression of something that they wanted to but could never put into words.

“Filmmaking is my activism,” she says.  Her neighborhood was middle class and she knew she had to leave the violence and that education was the path.  She knew this by “learning about the Chicano movement, learning from feminist theory, really looking at history, people’s history.”

Laura Varela is coming to Houston on March 28 to screen her film, “Enlight-Tents,” a short film about the  art installation she daringly set up in front of, and on the face of, the Alamo.  It screens at the Aurora Picture Show art event, “An Evening of Texas Mexican Film, Food and Meaning” during which a 9-course indigenous cuisine chef’s tasting menu will be served to guests as they watch her film overhead on a giant screen.

EnlightTents

For “Enlight-Tents” she projected slogans and faces of Native Americans to create a monumental slide show using the Alamo as a projection screen.  Her film is the adaption of the installation.  She did receive permission to project the images but did not have to explain beforehand exactly what the images were going to be.  She collaborated on the project with Vaago Wieland, an artist colleague from Germany.

According to Sarah Fisch, writer for San Antonio Current, “some say that Laura Varela and Vaago Wieland’s ‘Enlight-Tents’ installation on the Alamo grounds…and its photographic projections of faces of color…onto the Alamo’s stony face — unnerved a starchy Old Guard.” Art pieces, whether structure or performance-based, are not welcome at the Alamo.  Not any more.

“I want to raise topics, explore solution, there may be solutions…That for me is filmmaking.”  As part of the Chicano artist community, she believes that artists inspire us to see what can be.  She asked herself sometime ago, “What can I do that I love and can make change?” The answer is filmmaking.

Menu for the Food and Film Art Show

We will be serving/performing this meal at the Aurora Picture Show while above the diners, on a giant screen, art videos by Chicano filmmakers will play. The art show explores how films and food share texture, pacing, history, and how they perform similar aesthetic functions dealing with identity, remembering and community (March 28).

Chalupasml

“An Evening of Texas Mexican Food, Film and Meaning”
At the Aurora Picture Show with Adán Medrano

Chef’s Tasting Viewing Menu

La Bienvenida (Welcome):Trucha Ahumada Con Mayonesa de Chipotle-Yerbaníz

                            (Pecan-smoked trout with Chipotle-Yerbaníz Mayonnaise)

Scene 1:                                                   ◊◊◊

Gorditas de  Camarón y Nopalitos
(Texas Cactus and Gulf Coast Shrimp Canapé)

-
Gorditas de Frijoles Refritos y Queso
(Well-Fried Pinto Beans and Mexican Cheese Canapé)

FILM: “Yo Trabajo La Tierra” Adán Medrano 13 minutes

Scene 2:                                                    ◊◊◊

Texas Mexican Crab Cocktail
-
Pecan-smoked Pork Loin with Chile Ancho Adobo
-
Albóndigas de Chile Chipotle
(Pickled Chile Chipotle Meatballs)

FILM: “Detritus” Willie Varela 12 minutes

 Scene 3:                                                    ◊◊◊

Carne Guisada con Papas
(Green Chile Beef with Potatoes)
-
Puerco en Chile Rojo
(Pork in Dried Red Chiles)

FILMS: “Enlight Tents” Laura Varela & Vaago Weiland 4 minutes
“Have You Seen Marié?” Ray Santisteban 6 minutes

 ◊◊◊

La Despedida (Farewell):

Turcos
(Aromatic Pork Empanadas)
-
Hojarascas
(Cinnamon Rounds)

◊◊◊

 

El Puesto restaurant in San Antonio offers authentic and healthy

I had a delicious breakfast at El Puesto restaurant in San Antonio, Texas.
ElPuestosml

It  is the third in a row of Texas Mexican restaurants, next to each other, in the West side of San Antonio on old US Highway 90.  Each of the three restaurants has a specialty and El Puesto has the reputation of making a delicious Menudo.  I had some and it was superb, just like home.

These types of cafés, restaurantes of San Antonio’s Westside have been serving delicious, authentic Texas Mexican food since late 1800′s, away from the downtown area.

Only the working clCornTortillafilmsmlass Mexican American families dine here.  They don’t eat at any of the downtown Mexican restaurants, for these are their neighborhood places. The clientele of these Westside gems are a discrimating clientele who know good cooking and demand it.  Competition is fierce among these restaurantes as they strive for the best in freshness, preparation and service.

Price is also important and here at El Puesto you can have a beautifully executed breakfast of Huevos Rancheros for an unbelievable $2.49. That is their breakfast special price. That’s right, $2.49!  Well, you can’t beat that, and that’s what I ordered.

Take a look at this freshly made corn tortilla that comes with the huevos rancheros.  It is spectacular.  Notice that there is a leaf, a delicate layer on the tortilla.  That is the sign of a perfectly cooked tortilla: the right moisture, correct heat, perfect timing.  Every tortilla comes out that way.  If it didn’t the guests would go home and make their own.

The chef/owner is Santiago Segura.  He has been in the restaurant business for 15 years and opened El Puesto 6 years ago.  Business is good.  As I looked around in the kitchen, I was struck by two things.  How clean and well-organized the kitchen is and how fit and trim all the kitchen staff is.  I knew instantly:  the chef’s menu is not heavy with fried items, uses fat sparingly, and does not cook with lard, which in most kitchens today is the store-bought hydrogenated type.

Chef Segura cooks with only vegetable oil and he uses it sparingly.  He says that lard is not very good for you.  He then declared to me, “Tenemos ya mucha gente muy grande.” “We have already too many people who are too big.”  Besides, he says, his guests don’t like fatty food, and they will complain if the food is greasy.  I have heard that before from other Texas Mexican restaurants.

There are other reasons for his competitive edge in the Westside barrio.  He uses only fresh ingredients.  I asked him where he bought his nopalitos, cactus, and he says that they come in big batches from Mexico. They have to de-thorn them on site.  I did not make the mistake of asking him if he ever used pre-packaged nopalitos.

Also, he uses only fresh avocados in his dishes.  “Nunca con ese ‘pulp,’”  he said.  “We never buy that avocado pulp that comes in a plastic bag.”  He buys and peels his own avocados to make sure they are flavorful.

SalsaRancherasmlI was curious about his salsa ranchera, which I had with my eggs, because it was just plain wonderful–the way it’s supposed to taste.  Notice the fresh tomato, still with the peel, and the green chile.  He says he throws it together, already familiar with the ingredients and ratios.  I wish I had more breakfasts thrown together like that.

It was a restaurant like this one that a Chicago tourist visited back in 1900.  He was so taken by how crowded and successful the café was that he decided to open one himself.  Not in the barrio, where Anglos would not go, but in downtown San Antonio, a bit more soigné.  He opened up his “The Original Mexican Restaurant” in downtown San Antonio, and that’s how Tex-Mex food began.  A Mexican restaurant by Anglos for Anglos.  Add to that the claim that it was the original Mexican restaurant.  He hit on a winner, because Tex-Mex restaurants have been hugely successful over the years and even Mexican Americans have followed suit by opening up similar format restaurants, also with great success.

But they are different from El Puesto, of course, in many ways that speak to class, taste, cultural awareness and indigenous memory.

I like to taste a variety of cuisines, but admit freely that whenever I am near a little restaurante or café like this one, I cannot resist entering and savoring the delicious food that is so hard to find in most areas.  And the folk in those barrios take it for granted!  Life just isn’t fair.

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What Do Food and Film Have In Common? #2: Stereotypes

The second in our series of essays leading up to the Food & Film art event in March.

Stereotypes in Food and Film
Stereotypes appear both in food and film.  Sometimes they are employed intentionally for humor or satire and at other times they are a pejorative representation of people and places.  In this essay I will describe how  some Tex- Mex  food is stereotypic, how US films depict Mexicans and Mexican Americans stereotypically, and how Chicanos, Mexican Americans, deal with stereotypes in our food and in our on-screen depictions.

SombreroMexicanTex-Mex is a restaurant format food with origins in Texas in the early 1900′s.   As one walks into most Tex-Mex restaurants, the decor is that of a tourist curio shop: burros/donkeys, sarapes, sombreros and spit-fire dancing ladies.  The Tex-Mex restaurant format is one that has enjoyed dizzying success: a combination of fat-laden beans, highly seasoned rice, assembly-line corn tortillas and plenty of gooey processed cheese.SantaRitaCantina

Although not all Tex-Mex food is pejoratively stereotypic, much of it is.  Stereotypes paint the “other,” those different from us, in flat, one dimensional terms that allow us to escape from having to encounter them as human beings, culturally distinct and removed from what we know.  Every group has stereotypes of the other.  It is one way that we make sense of otherness when we cannot or do not want to make the effort to fully engage the other.  Many pejorative stereotypes are intended to be demeaning but in a covert, “wink, wink” manner, often disguised as humor.

The stereotypes are implied in the food itself: an inordinate amount of fat, use of chile only for the heat, and inclusion of beans prepared with no reference to taste.  These three characteristics of much Tex-Mex food are based on three pejorative stereotypes and each stereotype has a racial slur associated with it, “greaser” being one of them.  You can guess the other two.  They are as facile and inauthentic as the stereotypic images on the menus that announce them.

Films are important conveyors of the stereotypes found in food. “Bronco Billy and the Greaser,” a 1914 film, depicts the deeply held derogatory “greaser” stereotype that I believe is at play in some circles even today.  “The Bronze Screen,” a 2002 documentary produced and directed by  Nancy De Los Santos, Susan Racho, and Alberto Dominguez, does a masterful job of tracing stereotypes in US films.  From silent movies to urban gang films, stereotypes of the Greaser, the Lazy Mexican, the Latin Lover and the Dark, Spitfire Lady are examined.  I find it interesting to find these same images on restaurant menus.

Not all stereotypes are deployed in hateful ways.  They are used in comedy to poke fun and be humorously disrespectful.  In Chicano video it was the great Luis Valdez who most magnificently deployed stereotypes to keep spirits up and entertain in the picket lines of the United Farmworkers with Cesar Chavez.  The Lazy Mexican, Burros and Beaners found their way onto the stage and later onto video as larger than life stereotypes, turned on their head, deployed to say, let’s not take this too seriously, let’s laugh at ourselves, refresh, renew and take on the fight for human rights.

Besides using stereotypes for humor in films, Chicano filmmakers most often steer clear of them completely and focus instead on depicting the shades and nuances of what it means to be a Mexican American in a complex, modern society.  Laura Varela, Jim Mendiola, Ray Santisteban, Lourdes Portillo, Sylvia Morales are some of the many Chicano filmmakers who present authentic, full-blown stories.

NopalessmlThe culinary counterparts to Chicano filmmakers are the many small barrio restaurants that serve authentic Texas Mexican food, that which is enjoyed in Mexican American homes.  Chef Yuli Sandoval, chef/owner of Alex’s Tacos in Seguin, Texas, cooks beans that are slow-roasted to develop flavor. She is adamant that high fat hurts the taste and that it is bad for you. She appreciates the differences in taste and aroma that ancho, guajillo, pasilla and other chiles offer.  This is her Nopalitos con Chile Guajillo dish, certainly a far cry from the greasy dishes served in the curio Tex-Mex restaurants.

In their small restaurants, chefs like Sandoval offer a refreshing twist away from the caricatured, stereotyped food.  In the hands of Chicana, Chicano artists, both food and film offer a delicious and rich experience.

 

 

 

What Do Food and Film Have In Common? #1 Ownership

Logo Adan

This is the first in a series of posts about food and film, and how the two have similar artistic goals, production strategies and relationships with community.  I include video when using the term, film. The series is leading toward March 28 when we will present a public art performance that includes film screenings and a nine-course chef’s tasting menu.

Ownership in Food and Film
One thing that film and food have in common is ownership, aesthetic and financial.  Aesthetic ownership refers to the fact that the film represents the filmmaker’s ideas and that its structure is personally crafted to best express those ideas.  Financial ownership is simply who owns the rights to the film, usually whoever put up the money for the production. Most film and video artists fiercely want both aesthetic and financial ownership.  This because financial control implies aesthetic control and filmmakers cherish their independence in the making of a film, its content and structure.  The independent film movement and the micro-cinema movement both are driven by the need to preserve and promote independent personal visions and freedom.  The financing schemes of corporate-controlled Hollywood are geared toward formulaic, homogenized formats, so different from the more personal and distinctive productions of independent and micro-cinema.

Grassroots Ownership, SWAMP
In Houston there is an organization that for 36 years has been working with individual artists who want ownership, both aesthetic and financial, and helps them negotiate financing.  This means that at one time or another the artist or his work must deal with not only financial institutions but also social, political and religious establishments, the existing power centers.

The Southwest Alternate Media Project is historically connected to all of the great independent filmmakers of Texas and the Southwest, including Richard Linklater (Slackers) and even earlier, Eagle Pennel whose work, The Whole Shootin’ Match, was heralded by Robert Redford as the example of what independent film could be in the USA.

What is the secret of SWAMP’s success? It always works in ways that are in keeping with two words in its name:  “Alternate,” and “Project.”

The programs and services that it offers are “alternate,” far from the centers of power that most often attempt to control the artistic voice. SWAMP provides technical training for grassroots, always emerging and economically disadvantaged, voices.  It opens up social spaces where ideas and new works can find expression.  It works tirelessly to develop audiences for works whose world view is personal, certainly the alternate to the homogenous mainstream formats.

It has always remained a “project,” an ongoing, non-establishment process of a community.  Its identity as a “project” means that it deploys a coherent strategy that identifies vitality and promotes relationships. It is remarkable that SWAMP still has offices in a miniscule A-frame house that is modest to a fault and in no way advertises the nurturing, substantial power that it exercises in the independent video and film community.   I have often heard predictions, over the past 36 years, that SWAMP would cease to exist because its administrative structure is too flexible and its connections to the power establishment too tenuous.  But the opposite has happened.  SWAMP has found a way to relate effectively to the centers of power while garnering respect for not wanting to get too close.  The success of independent visions and microcinema in the region is due, to a significant extent, to SWAMP maintaining its status as alternate and as a project.   Now what does this have in common with food?

Artists and Food
When interviewing Chef Johnny Hernandez, Chef Owner of La Gloria in San Antonio, I heard the voice of an artist.  Similar to a filmmaker, he cherishes his independent vision and his freedom to create culinary dishes that are an authentic expression of himself personally and of his community.  A successful dish depends on the chef having aesthetic control over the food:  the ingredients, the culinary techniques employed, and the presentation as it meets the guest.  Making reference to Texas Mexican food, he explains that the cuisine has acquired a badly distorted, inauthentic image because of “the commercialization by a handful of operators.”

The cooks in these corporate-controlled chain restaurants do not have aesthetic ownership of the food.  There is a diminished connection between the cook’s touch and the cuisine.  Referring to the cherished cook’s touch,  Hernandez explains that “When you look at an industrialized, commercialized product, you lose it in volume.”

Chef Hernandez is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and his resume includes impressive culinary leadership in hotels and restaurants across the US.  But he returned to settle in his hometown, San Antonio.  He exemplifies a new generation of Chicana and Chicano chefs, classically trained, duty-bound to artful technique and aesthetically rooted in the tastes and textures of the Mexican American community of Central and South Texas.   He calls for inventing financing schemes that will lead to more Mexican American chef/owners, thus closing the gap between the food and the artist.  The food will then be more personal and genuine, just what a filmmaker wants.

 

Yucca and Food Cost

This morning I thought about the thousands of acres of prime farmland dedicated to growing corn that will cornforethanolnot feed anyone at all!  It will go to make fuel, as in this picture of trucks emptying corn into an ethanol plant in Iowa.  Corn for cars is a concept that gives me pause because consumption by cars competes with consumption by people.  It drives up the price of corn and thus the price of our food.  In the following article, I read that in Guatemala, for example, the price of corn and eggs has doubled in just three years.  Enough of this biofuel madness.

Here’s an article from Mother Jones about cars competing with humans for access to corn.

Our ancient, always reliable food and sense of belonging, corn, is being lost to cars.  These are where my thoughts were this morning.

So, I went out and got a yucca, another of our ancient, reliable foods.  Try this delightful snack to perk you up:  Yucca Chips!
YuccaChipsml

Just peel, slice thinly and roast on a griddle or frying pan, adding just a touch of oil.  Makes everything right as rain.

¡Buen Provecho!

 

Buñuelos for New Year’s Eve

Want to wish you a new year full, “llenísimo de lo bueno que nos da dios,” of health, love and safe surround.  I awoke early and made these buñuelos, remembering my younger days with amá, apá and all my brother and sisters.

buñuelosmlThese are as party nice today as they were then when I was a child.  I cut and shape mine just like mom did.

First make flour tortillas but add 1 teaspoon sugar per cup of flour.

Then roll the tortillas on a cutting board and slice them into 2″ wide strips.

In the middle of each strip, cut a slit lengthwise with a knife , leaving 1 inch on each end uncut.

In a deep skillet, heat peanut oil to very hot, shimmering, 350 F.

Take each strip and fold it through the slit, twisting as in the pic.  Deep fry it, turning so that both sides turn golden.  This will take about 2 minutes.

Place on paper towels and sprinkle with generous dashes of cinnamon and sugar. The cinnamon mixture should be 1/2 tsp cinnamon for every 3 tsp sugar.

Enjoy and have a happy new year!  ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!