Blog Archives

Hearty Tomato Sauce

I make large batches of this zesty, hearty  tomato sauce and freeze it in plastic bags.  It’s really great for spaghetti, meatballs and especially in baked dishes like eggplant parmigiana and pizzas.  HeartyTomatoSaucesml

Recipe

Ingredients (makes 4 cups)
4 cups Roma tomatoes, canned or fresh
2 cups Chicken stock (don’t gasp, it’ll work)
1/2 cup White Wine
1/2 small Onion
1/4 cup Celery, diced
2 Tbs Italian Parsley, chopped
4 Tbs Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 four-inch sprig Oregano
1 three-inch Parmesan Cheese Rind
1 Garlic Clove, minced
1/4 tsp ground Black Pepper

Method
1.  In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil on medium heat and then add the onion and celery and cook until soft.
2.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
3. Add all the other ingredients and use a masher to mash the tomatoes.  Bring to a boil.
4. Pour into a crockpot on medium or high and cook for 6 to 8 hours.

Last night I baked an eggplant parmigiana casserole with this sauce and it was plate-licking good!

Let me know what you think.  Buen Provecho!

Nueces En Texas: How To Roast Pecans

This morning I roasted pecans.
Break them into pieces, add a little salt and into the oven they go.  The aroma fills the home with delicious recollections.Pecanpiecessml

Food is memory and the pecan is a good example of this.  Pecan is an iconic ingredient in many Texas Mexican dishes.

Near Del Río, Texas, archaeological evidence dates the pecan back 5,000 years.  (Dial & Black, 2006)  Native cooks, our ancestors, would grind them up, mix them with seeds and grains for a nutritous protein-rich meal.  Cabeza de Vaca attested to this in the 1500′s when he traveled along the San Antonio and Guadalupe rivers whose banks were loaded with pecan groves. Over the centuries our cuisine has incorporated pecans in creative and delicious ways.

My amá used roasted pecan pieces in her cornbread dressing, as I do now, and every time I do so, I sense her presence. A wonderful thing.

Dulce De Leche Quemada is a candy with pecans.  When I cooked the little candies and presented them as sculptures at an art show, “The Candy Shop,” one of my artist friends took a bite and recalled a flood of memories “I was a boy, and barefoot.”  He is from New Braunfels, TX, and pecans, abundant there, form part of his being.

Although raw pecans are tasty, I almost always roast them.  First I heat the oven to 350F.  I spread the pecan pieces onto a baking sheet and sprinkle them with salt. Place them in the oven and roast for 8 minutes.  It doesn’t take long.  The difference in flavor is dramatic.

Happy memories!

References:

Dial, S., & Black, S. (2006, September 18). Pecan . Retrieved from http://www.texasbeyondhistory.net/st-plains/nature/images/pecan.html

Posole, Pozole: White Corn Flowerettes In Aromatic Red Chile

Pozolesml

Large white corn kernels pop open to form small little flowers.
Brilliant the cook that invented this attractive dish.PozoleKernelssml

Cooked with special combinations of red chiles it is a traditional dish that is also cooked by native communities northwest of us, Pueblos in New Mexico and Navajos in Arizona (Keegan, 2010). It is traditional from our Texas Mexican region all the day down to Jalisco, Mexico. It is spelled with an S in Texas, Arizona and New Mexico and with a Z in Mexico.  Pork is used to make the broth.  In this version I omit the pork and it is a vegan feast recalling the pre-pork days of our cuisine.

The process is molecular. Boil white, dry corn with calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) a process called nixtamalization which was invented by indigenous cooks thousands of years ago. Nixtamalization is from the Nahuatl root words, “nextli,” ashes and “tamallii,” tamal. The process changes the chemical structure of the kernel, making niacin available in digestion and boosting the availability of protein.

Maiz3stages

Nixtamalization heightens the availability of protein and removes the hull. The pedicle is removed for visual effect.

 

It also removes the skin from the kernel and improves the taste.  This is natural molecular cooking and the result is wonderfully nutty hominy.

If you don’t have the time for nixtamalization, you can certainly use canned hominy, maiz pozolero.

Recipe:  (Serves 8-12)

Ingredients
For the corn
1 ½ lbs Cacahuazintle, dried white corn for pozole. In Houston I buy this large white dried corn from any of our corn mills that perform nixtamalization to make tortillas and masa for tamales.
1 Tbs Calcium Hydroxide (slaked lime)
5 Garlic cloves
1 Tbs Salt
1 White onion, peeled and  cut into quarters

For the chile paste:
3 Guajillo Chiles, deseeded and deveined
2 Chiles Ancho
3 Garlic cloves
1 Tbs dry Mexican Oregano
1 tsp Cumin seeds

Accompaniments:
½ Cabbage, sliced into thin strips (I sometimes use shredded Iceberg lettuce)
1 bunch Radishes, thinly sliced
1 cup White Onion, small dice
3 Mexican limes, cut into wedges
1 bunch fresh Cilantro, coarsely chopped

Method:
The corn:
1. The night before, place the dry corn in a large pot and fill with water 4 inches above the corn.  Soak overnight.

2.  The following day, discard the water, then add  clean water and the calcium hydroxide, “cal.” Bring the water to a boil and boil the corn for 15 minutes. Check doneness by taking out one kernel and rubbing between your thumb and forefinger. If the outer, slippery skin rubs off easily, the corn is done. Let the corn soak in the water for 10 minutes, then drain.MaizPozolerosml

3. Place the corn in a bowl or pot of clean water and vigorously rub the kernels together to scrape away the slippery skin from all the kernels. Change the water as needed until you get no debris and the corn is clean and white. This is labor intensive. Some of the little brown seed germs on the kernel tips will fall off. That’s very good, because they have to be removed.

4. Use your fingernails or a knife or scissors to take off the little brown seed germ, pedicel, at the tip of each kernel. Although it’s not traditional, you can leave the pedicel on if you like.  Set aside.

The Chile paste:

5. Remove the seeds from the chiles by cutting a slit lengthwise in each chile to open it and remove the stem with the attached seeds. Remove all the other seeds in the chile pod.

6. Place the chiles in a large pot and cover them with water. Bring to a boil, turn off the heat and let the chiles steep for 15 minutes so they will re-hydrate. Drain and allow to cool. Discard the water.

7. Place the chiles, garlic, oregano and cumin in a blender. Add one cup of clean water and blend on high until the paste is completely smooth, with no large particles. It is ok to add a little more water if needed. If there are large particles in the paste after you are done blending, strain the paste through a fine mesh sieve.

8. Add the chile paste to the cleaned corn, adding enough water to cover three inches above the corn, and boil it for one hour or longer until the kernels burst open like little flower buds.  If you have kids, they’ll love this transformation.

Serve the pozole in bowls accompanied by finely shredded cabbage, thinly sliced radishes, lime wedges, Cilantro and diced white onion. Of course, steaming corn tortillas.

PozoleWithCondiments

Posole: A vegan feast recalling our pre-pork cuisine.

REFERENCES:

Keegan, M. (2010). Southwest indian cookbook. Santa Fe: Clear Light Publishing.

 

 

“Ding-Dong The Witch is Dead”

“Ding-Dong The Witch Is Dead” is #1 on the British Music Charts.

WitchandDorothy

That’s a strong protest against the Thatcher policies regarding torture, immigration, union rights and health care. More interesting, though is that although #1 songs are played by the BBC radio, now the BBC has decided it will not play this particular Number 1 song.  Not all Brits agree with this political protest, especially the supporters of the Thatcher policies who call the protest bad taste. They are pressuring the BBC not to play the song, since it is simply a political manipulation.

No matter if you are a pro-Thatcher or anti-Thatcher, this remarkable event brings to light the way that all media is manipulated all the time.  Two questions arise:  who is doing the manipulation and how do we choose to consume media.

The BBC was accused of caving in to pressure and censoring the will of record-buyers after ruling that it would broadcast just five seconds of “Ding Dong! The Witch Is Dead” during Sunday’s chart run-down. The five seconds will be part of a news program and not the music chart show.

The only note I want to make is that popular music, like all media, is always a constructed human activity.  Someone is making it and feeding it to us.  It is part of our cultural fiber and we consume it regularly.

To use it as political protest is interesting because it means we see the serious side of what music does in our lives.  It sets the agenda for public conversation and also frames the discussions that we have.  In this regard, music is exactly like food.  Media and food are both deeply embedded in our culture.  Both are produced by people who deliver it to us. Sometimes we need to take a closer look at how we choose to consume it.

Food of Indigenous Texas Peoples Who Became Today’s Mexican American Community.

AMapplause

March 28 we served a 9-course Texas Mexican dinner at the Aurora Picture Show,  Some of my family and friends came in from San Antonio and two chef friends, fellow CIA alumni, flew in to help staff the kitchen.  Many Houston friends and colleagues attended the dinner/films, but there were also  folk I’ve never met before.  Gracias, gracias, gracias. It was an amazing evening of culture and amistad.  Here is a FB picture set of the evening.

boyfarmworker

“Yo Trabajo La Tierra” – “I Work The Land” A video meditation by Adán Medrano, 13 minutes

I expect one can look at this art event from the perspective of relational aesthetic theory if there still is one, or from strictly film or culinary art criticism perspectives.  But after all is said and done, we have eaten together the food we learned to cook from our Texas indigenous ancestors and we have seen projections of ourselves.  Below is an explanation of Texas Mexican food and the films that were be screened.  Thanks to all.

Texas Mexican Cuisine
(From the book, Authentic Texas Mexican Food by Adán Medrano,
to be published this year byTexas Tech University Press)

Texas Mexican cuisine is deeply rooted in the indigenous cultures of what are now US central and south Texas and northeastern Mexico.  The history of the cultures of this region begins in 900 AD, the period when anthropologists can identify distinct native communities and cultures.  Historians assert that over the next 3 centuries (between 900 and 1200 AD) the cultures and identities of nearly all the Texas Native American communities were clearly formed.

map1824Mexicocropline

Map of 1824 Texas Mexico. The triangle is the region of
Texas Mexican Cuisine.

This region was the state of “Coahuila y Texas” and actually part of the Mexican Republic which claimed Texas from 1821 to 1848.  It is therefore understandable that the indigenous Texas natives, along with their food, came to be known as “Mexican.” But it is erroneous to locate this food history as “south of the border,” for it existed also north of the Rio Grande River long before it was a border.

Between 1492 and 1900, 90% of the native peoples of Texas died.  European diseases such as cholera, smallpox, measles and influenza killed massive populations within weeks and even days.  Adding to this, Texan wars against native peoples and policies of ethnic cleansing would lead to massive deaths.

The indigenous peoples who remained in Texas married with other tribes, with European settlers and with Mexicans coming up from Southern Mexico. They sometimes lived in Catholic Church missions and eventually came to be known as the Mexican American people of Texas.

Chicano Films

Chicano is the name that is selected by Mexican Americans as a statement of self-identity.  Among its many connotations is one that affirms being culturally distinct while at the same time being at home in this land. It was used during the Chicano movement of the 1960′s and 1970′s and is associated with political action that improves the economic, social, educational and cultural lives of the Mexican American community and wider humane community.  The San Antonio CineFestival, founded by Medrano in 1976, was the first and now longest-running showcase of Chicano filmmaking.

Yo Trabajo La Tierra/I Work The Land (1990), 13 minutes, by Adán Medrano is a meditation on the religious and political dimensions of people who do farm work.  The no-dialog video is based on dreams and memories of the filmmaker, whose style is characterized by traditional, formal editing.  Raw natural sounds underscore daily routine, ending with a “corrido” about the farmworker God.

Willie Varela, Filmmaker

Willie Varela, Filmmaker

Detritus, The Remix (1989/2002), 12 minutes, by Willie Varela forces viewers to reckon with their intimate relationship to television. Using TV footage and his own images, Varela implicates both the consumer and the media industry in perpetuating a system of empty promises.  Texture, pacing, claustrophobia, Catholicism are foregrounded. A pioneer in the US avant-garde film movement, Varela defines the role of Chicano filmmaking in the development of US cinema.

Enlight-Tents (2010) by Laura Varela and Vaago Weiland, 4 minutes, transforms into a video format a live installation that used The Alamo as a giant screen.  Texas “Indians” are layered over the stone texture of the old mission walls and juxtaposed with illuminated Mexican American faces looking into the beyond as though there were no time.

 

ladyflowersmiles

“Have You Seen Marie” video by Ray Santisteban, 7 minutes,
Winner, 2013 San Antonio CineFestival “Best Short Film”

Have You Seen Marie? (2012) by Ray Santisteban, 7 minutes, transforms a book by renowned Chicana author, Sandra Cisneros, into a personal video statement by pasting print and moving images inside the same frame.  The work merges documentary style camera work with digital image manipulation to retell the story of a lost cat – and who we really are.

The Chef’s Tasting Menu

La Bienvenida:    Trucha Ahumada Con Mayonesa de Chipotle-Yerbaníz

(Smoked Trout with Chipotle-Yerbaníz Mayonnaise)

Scene 1:

Gorditas de  Camarón y Nopalitos
(Texas Cactus and Gulf Coast Shrimp Canapé)

Gorditas de Frijoles Refritos y Queso
(Well-Fried Pinto Beans and Cheese Canapé)

FILM: “Yo Trabajo La Tierra” Adán Medrano 13 minutes

Scene 2:

Texas Mexican Crab Cocktail
Pecan-smoked Pork Loin with Chile Ancho Adobo

Albóndigas de Chile Chipotle
(Pickled Chile Chipotle Meatballs)

FILM: “Detritus” Willie Varela 12 minutes

 Scene 3:

Carne Guisada con Papas
(Green Chile  Beef with Potatoes)

Puerco en Chile Rojo
(Pork in Dried Red Chiles)

puerchilesml

Puerco En Chile Rojo

FILMS: “Enlight Tents” Laura Varela & Vaago Weiland 7 minutes
Have You Seen Marié?” Ray Santisteban 6 minutes

 La Despedida:

Turcos
(Aromatic Pork Empanadas)

Hojarascas
(Cinnamon Rounds)

Hojarascas

Hojarascas

Hasta luego!

Laura Varela, New-Style Filmmaker, Coming To Houston

Laura Varela  sees things that others do not see, and as a documentary filmmaker, she shares her vision by exploring new styles in storytelling.  She tells history with detail and force, and in her recent work, combines filmmaking with actual live art installations.LauraVarelasml

“My work is about those things that I know were not right, and now I can try to change them.” When she was 16 years old, growing up along the US-Mexico border in El Paso, Texas, she saw a man shot to death, just 10 feet in front of her.  She saw Mexican American Vietnam veterans dying from drug overdoses.  The violence that is reported in the press and media was the everyday social environment in which she grew up and which now inform her filmmaking: “I saw a lot of tragedy, things children should not see.”

Varela produced and directed “As Long As I Remember: American Veteranos” in 2009 and her masterful command of the stories of three artists, Vietnam war veterans, surely comes from seeing this human pain during her teen years, so close and personal.  The documentary aired on PBS nationally and is now on DVD.  It is hands down gripping in its exploration, in rare intimate fashion, of the agony soldiers live with after war.  Three Mexican American artists are the subjects, and if your view of war and pain has come only from the sensational news angles or facile depictions of sad moments, Varela’s movie will change you.   To get inside the ideas and emotions of these three men it takes a filmmaker who understands  Mexican American beliefs, how family relationships work, how gender roles are socially taught.  Varela receives letters from Veterans who found, in her film, the expression of something that they wanted to but could never put into words.

“Filmmaking is my activism,” she says.  Her neighborhood was middle class and she knew she had to leave the violence and that education was the path.  She knew this by “learning about the Chicano movement, learning from feminist theory, really looking at history, people’s history.”

Laura Varela is coming to Houston on March 28 to screen her film, “Enlight-Tents,” a short film about the  art installation she daringly set up in front of, and on the face of, the Alamo.  It screens at the Aurora Picture Show art event, “An Evening of Texas Mexican Film, Food and Meaning” during which a 9-course indigenous cuisine chef’s tasting menu will be served to guests as they watch her film overhead on a giant screen.

EnlightTents

For “Enlight-Tents” she projected slogans and faces of Native Americans to create a monumental slide show using the Alamo as a projection screen.  Her film is the adaption of the installation.  She did receive permission to project the images but did not have to explain beforehand exactly what the images were going to be.  She collaborated on the project with Vaago Wieland, an artist colleague from Germany.

According to Sarah Fisch, writer for San Antonio Current, “some say that Laura Varela and Vaago Wieland’s ‘Enlight-Tents’ installation on the Alamo grounds…and its photographic projections of faces of color…onto the Alamo’s stony face — unnerved a starchy Old Guard.” Art pieces, whether structure or performance-based, are not welcome at the Alamo.  Not any more.

“I want to raise topics, explore solution, there may be solutions…That for me is filmmaking.”  As part of the Chicano artist community, she believes that artists inspire us to see what can be.  She asked herself sometime ago, “What can I do that I love and can make change?” The answer is filmmaking.

Menu for the Food and Film Art Show

We will be serving/performing this meal at the Aurora Picture Show while above the diners, on a giant screen, art videos by Chicano filmmakers will play. The art show explores how films and food share texture, pacing, history, and how they perform similar aesthetic functions dealing with identity, remembering and community (March 28).

Chalupasml

“An Evening of Texas Mexican Food, Film and Meaning”
At the Aurora Picture Show with Adán Medrano

Chef’s Tasting Viewing Menu

La Bienvenida (Welcome):Trucha Ahumada Con Mayonesa de Chipotle-Yerbaníz

                            (Pecan-smoked trout with Chipotle-Yerbaníz Mayonnaise)

Scene 1:                                                   ◊◊◊

Gorditas de  Camarón y Nopalitos
(Texas Cactus and Gulf Coast Shrimp Canapé)

-
Gorditas de Frijoles Refritos y Queso
(Well-Fried Pinto Beans and Mexican Cheese Canapé)

FILM: “Yo Trabajo La Tierra” Adán Medrano 13 minutes

Scene 2:                                                    ◊◊◊

Texas Mexican Crab Cocktail
-
Pecan-smoked Pork Loin with Chile Ancho Adobo
-
Albóndigas de Chile Chipotle
(Pickled Chile Chipotle Meatballs)

FILM: “Detritus” Willie Varela 12 minutes

 Scene 3:                                                    ◊◊◊

Carne Guisada con Papas
(Green Chile Beef with Potatoes)
-
Puerco en Chile Rojo
(Pork in Dried Red Chiles)

FILMS: “Enlight Tents” Laura Varela & Vaago Weiland 4 minutes
“Have You Seen Marié?” Ray Santisteban 6 minutes

 ◊◊◊

La Despedida (Farewell):

Turcos
(Aromatic Pork Empanadas)
-
Hojarascas
(Cinnamon Rounds)

◊◊◊

 

El Puesto restaurant in San Antonio offers authentic and healthy

I had a delicious breakfast at El Puesto restaurant in San Antonio, Texas.
ElPuestosml

It  is the third in a row of Texas Mexican restaurants, next to each other, in the West side of San Antonio on old US Highway 90.  Each of the three restaurants has a specialty and El Puesto has the reputation of making a delicious Menudo.  I had some and it was superb, just like home.

These types of cafés, restaurantes of San Antonio’s Westside have been serving delicious, authentic Texas Mexican food since late 1800′s, away from the downtown area.

Only the working clCornTortillafilmsmlass Mexican American families dine here.  They don’t eat at any of the downtown Mexican restaurants, for these are their neighborhood places. The clientele of these Westside gems are a discrimating clientele who know good cooking and demand it.  Competition is fierce among these restaurantes as they strive for the best in freshness, preparation and service.

Price is also important and here at El Puesto you can have a beautifully executed breakfast of Huevos Rancheros for an unbelievable $2.49. That is their breakfast special price. That’s right, $2.49!  Well, you can’t beat that, and that’s what I ordered.

Take a look at this freshly made corn tortilla that comes with the huevos rancheros.  It is spectacular.  Notice that there is a leaf, a delicate layer on the tortilla.  That is the sign of a perfectly cooked tortilla: the right moisture, correct heat, perfect timing.  Every tortilla comes out that way.  If it didn’t the guests would go home and make their own.

The chef/owner is Santiago Segura.  He has been in the restaurant business for 15 years and opened El Puesto 6 years ago.  Business is good.  As I looked around in the kitchen, I was struck by two things.  How clean and well-organized the kitchen is and how fit and trim all the kitchen staff is.  I knew instantly:  the chef’s menu is not heavy with fried items, uses fat sparingly, and does not cook with lard, which in most kitchens today is the store-bought hydrogenated type.

Chef Segura cooks with only vegetable oil and he uses it sparingly.  He says that lard is not very good for you.  He then declared to me, “Tenemos ya mucha gente muy grande.” “We have already too many people who are too big.”  Besides, he says, his guests don’t like fatty food, and they will complain if the food is greasy.  I have heard that before from other Texas Mexican restaurants.

There are other reasons for his competitive edge in the Westside barrio.  He uses only fresh ingredients.  I asked him where he bought his nopalitos, cactus, and he says that they come in big batches from Mexico. They have to de-thorn them on site.  I did not make the mistake of asking him if he ever used pre-packaged nopalitos.

Also, he uses only fresh avocados in his dishes.  “Nunca con ese ‘pulp,’”  he said.  “We never buy that avocado pulp that comes in a plastic bag.”  He buys and peels his own avocados to make sure they are flavorful.

SalsaRancherasmlI was curious about his salsa ranchera, which I had with my eggs, because it was just plain wonderful–the way it’s supposed to taste.  Notice the fresh tomato, still with the peel, and the green chile.  He says he throws it together, already familiar with the ingredients and ratios.  I wish I had more breakfasts thrown together like that.

It was a restaurant like this one that a Chicago tourist visited back in 1900.  He was so taken by how crowded and successful the café was that he decided to open one himself.  Not in the barrio, where Anglos would not go, but in downtown San Antonio, a bit more soigné.  He opened up his “The Original Mexican Restaurant” in downtown San Antonio, and that’s how Tex-Mex food began.  A Mexican restaurant by Anglos for Anglos.  Add to that the claim that it was the original Mexican restaurant.  He hit on a winner, because Tex-Mex restaurants have been hugely successful over the years and even Mexican Americans have followed suit by opening up similar format restaurants, also with great success.

But they are different from El Puesto, of course, in many ways that speak to class, taste, cultural awareness and indigenous memory.

I like to taste a variety of cuisines, but admit freely that whenever I am near a little restaurante or café like this one, I cannot resist entering and savoring the delicious food that is so hard to find in most areas.  And the folk in those barrios take it for granted!  Life just isn’t fair.

ElPuestoLSsml

Mushroom Strudel in Mexican Chile Dulce

Sometimes you just feel like having friends over for a “gussied up” dinner party. This lacto-vegetarian dish is rich and fancy, but you can assemble everything ahead of time and, when your friends arrive, pop it in the oven.  No, this is not Texas Mexican at all, but we can’t get away from using chiles, in this case the sweet, no capsaicin “Chile Dulce,” aka Bell Pepper.

The Spanish fell in love with this Mexican chile and in the 1500′s transported it to Europe where it naturalized in their gardens and is now an integral part of the Spanish culinary culture.  They call it Pimentón.  The same love affair happened in Hungary where it is called Paprika. Chile Dulce is just beloved by everyone.  You’ll see why in this dish.  And so will your friends.

The strudel’s a bit of a trick to assemble but keeps well in the refrigerator for hours, freeing you up to relax with your guests until you’re ready to pop it in the oven.

MushroomRouladesml

Mushroom Strudel in Mexican Chile Dulce

Recipe (makes 2 strudel logs. Each serves 6. Keep one in the fridge for later)
Ingredients:
For the Strudel:
4 oz. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/4 cup Garlic, minced
1/2 cup Shallots, minced
5 lbs Mushrooms, quartered
8 oz. Dry Sherry
6 oz. Goat Cheese
3/4 cup Chives, minced
2 Tbs Fresh Thyme, chopped
Salt to taste
Generous grinding of Black Pepper

1 Box Phyllo Dough
8 oz. Salted Butter, melted
2 cups Bread Crumbs or Panko (3/4 cup for each strudel)

For the Chile Dulce Coulis:
1 oz. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/4 cup Shallots, minced
2 Tbs Garlic, minced
2 cups Red Chile Dulce, Bell Pepper, seeded and chopped
1 cup White Wine
1 3″ Sprig of Fresh Thyme

3 lbs. Fresh Spinach
1 Tbs. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Tbs. Garlic, minced
Salt to taste

Method
For the Strudel: (follow the package directions and thaw the phyllo sheets.  After they are thawed, keep them covered with a very damp cloth)
1. In a large skillet heat the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the mushrooms until golden brown.
2. Add the shallots and the garlic and cook, stirring often, until all of the liquid has evaporated.
3.  Add the Sherry and scrape the pan to unstick all the browned bits. After the Sherry has evaporated completely, set aside and cool to room temperature.
4. Add the cheese and herbs, mix well and season with salt and pepper according to your taste.
5.  Divide the mixture in half and, using waxed paper, parchment or aluminum foil, roll into two 10″ logs.  Hold in the refrigerator to chill a bit.
6. To make the strudel logs, place one 14″ phyllo sheet on waxed paper or plastic wrap and brush it with the melted butter. Then quickly place a second sheet on top of the first, brush with butter and sprinkle bread crumbs over it. Place the other sheets on top, buttering each one and sprinkling with bread crumbs.  Do not butter the last sheet.
7. Remove the mushroom log from the refrigerator, place it on the stack of phyllo sheets and roll it. Fold the two ends and place the strudel, seam side down, on a greased baking sheet. Score the top with a sharp knife and place in the refrigerator, covered, until you are ready to bake it.
8.  Bake in a 375F oven for 45 minutes or until golden brown.

For the Chile Dulce Coulis
1.  In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat, then add the shallots, garlic and chile dulce.  Cook on low heat until they become soft.
2.  Add the wine, herbs, crushed black pepper and cook, uncovered, over medium heat until the liquid evaporates to 1/3 the original volume.
3. Remove the Bay Leaf and Thyme, pour into a blender and blend into a smooth purée.  It should be velvety smooth.  If there are bits and flecks, strain through a fine mesh sieve. Pour it into a saucepan and place the saucepan in hot water. This will keep it warm for a good hour. Reheat the water as you like to keep the coulis warm.

To Sauté the Spinach:
1. In a large Dutch oven heat the olive oil over medium heat, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
2. Add the Spinach and toss to coat it. Cover the pan and cook for 2 minutes.  Then uncover and keep stirring the Spinach until it is completely wilted.  Add salt to taste. It is ready to serve.

The strudel will slice easily once it is baked.  Arrange on plates as in the picture, spooning the Chile Dulce on each plate and adding dollops of the wilted Spinach.  I just love this dish. A Chilean sauvignon blanc would be great.

What Do Food and Film Have In Common? #2: Stereotypes

The second in our series of essays leading up to the Food & Film art event in March.

Stereotypes in Food and Film
Stereotypes appear both in food and film.  Sometimes they are employed intentionally for humor or satire and at other times they are a pejorative representation of people and places.  In this essay I will describe how  some Tex- Mex  food is stereotypic, how US films depict Mexicans and Mexican Americans stereotypically, and how Chicanos, Mexican Americans, deal with stereotypes in our food and in our on-screen depictions.

SombreroMexicanTex-Mex is a restaurant format food with origins in Texas in the early 1900′s.   As one walks into most Tex-Mex restaurants, the decor is that of a tourist curio shop: burros/donkeys, sarapes, sombreros and spit-fire dancing ladies.  The Tex-Mex restaurant format is one that has enjoyed dizzying success: a combination of fat-laden beans, highly seasoned rice, assembly-line corn tortillas and plenty of gooey processed cheese.SantaRitaCantina

Although not all Tex-Mex food is pejoratively stereotypic, much of it is.  Stereotypes paint the “other,” those different from us, in flat, one dimensional terms that allow us to escape from having to encounter them as human beings, culturally distinct and removed from what we know.  Every group has stereotypes of the other.  It is one way that we make sense of otherness when we cannot or do not want to make the effort to fully engage the other.  Many pejorative stereotypes are intended to be demeaning but in a covert, “wink, wink” manner, often disguised as humor.

The stereotypes are implied in the food itself: an inordinate amount of fat, use of chile only for the heat, and inclusion of beans prepared with no reference to taste.  These three characteristics of much Tex-Mex food are based on three pejorative stereotypes and each stereotype has a racial slur associated with it, “greaser” being one of them.  You can guess the other two.  They are as facile and inauthentic as the stereotypic images on the menus that announce them.

Films are important conveyors of the stereotypes found in food. “Bronco Billy and the Greaser,” a 1914 film, depicts the deeply held derogatory “greaser” stereotype that I believe is at play in some circles even today.  “The Bronze Screen,” a 2002 documentary produced and directed by  Nancy De Los Santos, Susan Racho, and Alberto Dominguez, does a masterful job of tracing stereotypes in US films.  From silent movies to urban gang films, stereotypes of the Greaser, the Lazy Mexican, the Latin Lover and the Dark, Spitfire Lady are examined.  I find it interesting to find these same images on restaurant menus.

Not all stereotypes are deployed in hateful ways.  They are used in comedy to poke fun and be humorously disrespectful.  In Chicano video it was the great Luis Valdez who most magnificently deployed stereotypes to keep spirits up and entertain in the picket lines of the United Farmworkers with Cesar Chavez.  The Lazy Mexican, Burros and Beaners found their way onto the stage and later onto video as larger than life stereotypes, turned on their head, deployed to say, let’s not take this too seriously, let’s laugh at ourselves, refresh, renew and take on the fight for human rights.

Besides using stereotypes for humor in films, Chicano filmmakers most often steer clear of them completely and focus instead on depicting the shades and nuances of what it means to be a Mexican American in a complex, modern society.  Laura Varela, Jim Mendiola, Ray Santisteban, Lourdes Portillo, Sylvia Morales are some of the many Chicano filmmakers who present authentic, full-blown stories.

NopalessmlThe culinary counterparts to Chicano filmmakers are the many small barrio restaurants that serve authentic Texas Mexican food, that which is enjoyed in Mexican American homes.  Chef Yuli Sandoval, chef/owner of Alex’s Tacos in Seguin, Texas, cooks beans that are slow-roasted to develop flavor. She is adamant that high fat hurts the taste and that it is bad for you. She appreciates the differences in taste and aroma that ancho, guajillo, pasilla and other chiles offer.  This is her Nopalitos con Chile Guajillo dish, certainly a far cry from the greasy dishes served in the curio Tex-Mex restaurants.

In their small restaurants, chefs like Sandoval offer a refreshing twist away from the caricatured, stereotyped food.  In the hands of Chicana, Chicano artists, both food and film offer a delicious and rich experience.